These are the best Pinot Noirs in Switzerland!
blick.ch, 24.4.2012 – Pinot Noir, or Pinot Noir, is the most widely planted grape variety in Switzerland. Every region has its Pinot. But which is the best? The big BLICK check reveals.
From Alain Kunz
The wine country of Switzerland is Chasselas, known from the Vaud region and the Valais Fendant. The clear number one? Not any more. A few years ago, Pinot Noir overtook Chasselas. Mainly because there is no Swiss wine region in which Pinot Noir vines are not cultivated. From Geneva to Ticino – Pinot grows everywhere.
We took the annual meeting of the best Swiss winemakers at the Mémoire des Vins Suisses as an opportunity to taste a large number of the best Swiss Pinots. Of the 50 members, no fewer than eleven are part of the treasure trove of Swiss wine thanks to their Pinots.
To complete the picture, we have added three winemakers who are indispensable: firstly, Daniel and Martha Gantenbein, the most internationally renowned Swiss winemakers, because they are the only ones to focus on exports. The Gantenbeins are the only ones to have made it onto the Falstaff list of the 100 best wines in the world. Secondly, Diego Mathier, the two-time Winemaker of the Year, whose “L’Ambassadeur de Diego Mathier” was recently named the best Swiss Pinot by the “Sonntagszeitung”. And thirdly, two-time Pinot Noir world champion Martin Donatsch, who is probably a Mémoire member, albeit with his wonderful Completer.
Donatsch characterizes the sensitive, capricious grape from Burgundy aptly: “It can show a lot and reflects the terroir like no other grape variety. However, it does not forgive mistakes. Which means: you can’t make a great Pinot in the cellar.” Donatsch does not go so far as to describe the grape as a bitch. But it does go in that direction. The young winemaker has won the world championship title at the Mondial du Pinot Noir twice in a row, this year with the 2007/2008/2009 vintages of his “Passion”.
It is not really surprising that the Bündner Herrschaft, which is ideally suited to Pinot, produces outstanding Pinot Noirs that can compete with the best Burgundies. In Neuchâtel, on the other hand, you would never have guessed it. Louis-Philippe Burgat proves us wrong at his Domaine de Chambleau.
Thanks to incredible meticulousness and perfection, he regularly hits the big time with the “Pur Sang”. “You have to be tough as nails. In July, I cut away all berries that are too big, because they are susceptible to rotting when wet.” In addition, virtually every single grape is scrutinized during the harvest. “Any of my pickers who don’t take the utmost care are sent away,” says Burgat. As a result, the yield is incredibly low at an average of 300 grams per square meter.
The grapes for the “Pur Sang” grow on three particularly good individual vineyards. Burgat relies entirely on his gut to determine the perfect harvest date. “And my palate, of course. I judge on the basis of what the grapes tell me in my mouth and not on the basis of Oechsle degrees.” In 2008, this meant that the Pinot was only harvested on November 2 (!). However, this perfectionism has its price: the pure blood costs 69 francs, making it the most expensive Mémoire wine. Too much? Burgat: “No, actually too cheap…”
Enough theory. Curtain up for the ultimate Swiss Pinot charts!
3rd place: 18 points
L’Ambassadeur de Diego Mathier 2009, Diego Mathier, Salgesch VS: The barrique notes are subliminal, the fruit is beautiful, lots of elegance, the tannins still need some time to mature. Great mix of berries, floral, cherries, spicy. Could even improve!
