Grand Cru Salgesch
The mother of all CH Grand Crus
In viticulture, qualitative innovations are often reactions to disasters. In 1982, Valais winegrowers bottled almost 80 million liters of wine, twice as much as in previous years. Grape prices fell dramatically and the Valais winegrowing scene was on the verge of collapse. One of the most positive reactions came in 1988, when the winegrowers of the winegrowing village of Salgesch got together and launched the Grand Cru Salgesch for their flagship variety, Pinot Noir. With strict regulations. The grapes had to come from specially registered plots, the yield was limited to one kilo, later to 800 grams per square meter. Sugaring was prohibited and the use of sulphurous acid was limited. And the quality of the wines had to be guaranteed by a tasting commission. Perhaps the most courageous passage concerned ageing. At a time when ageing in oak barrels was becoming the standard for ambitious Pinots, the Grand Cru regulations explicitly forbade ageing in oak barriques. The focus should be on the unadulterated character of the wines. In this way, the winegrowers of Salgesch were already promoting a Pinot style 30 years ago that is currently gaining more followers again. At the celebration of the 30th anniversary of the Salgesch Grand Crus, the winegrowers discussed the current significance of this quality label with journalists. The question was also raised as to whether Pinot Noir will continue to be the right quality ambassador for the Salgesch terroir in the future in view of climatic changes. The Grand Cru winegrowers in particular proved that thanks to the height and orientation of the plots, leaf management, harvest time, but also measures in vinification (such as fermentation with Rappen), Pinots are being produced in Salgesch today that are convincing with freshness and elegance. And an astonishing development potential. During the vertical tasting of Grand Cru Pinots dating back to the founding year of 1988, the oldest representatives in particular were surprisingly lively.
Thomas Vaterlaus recommends Grand Cru Pinots from Salgesch
Adrian & Diego Mathier – Salgesch, Switzerland
Pinot Noir Grand Cru 1988
17 points / 2018 to 2021
Very complex aromas with a still almost delicate, slightly sweetish berry fruit, meadow herbs, subtle earthy aspects and a hint of tea, undergrowth and autumn leaves. Densely woven on the palate, with a soft, ripe fruit fullness. Well structured. Still shows a lot of character and is fun to drink.
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